Line an area with wallpaper and you’ve got instant decoration. From blah to bold in a matter of hours, paper can push boundaries outside what paint can do. It enlivens walls with textures or patterns or your choice.
But as frequently as homeowners attempt to hang paper themselves, they rarely get it right, cursing their peeling seams and mismatched patterns–it is enough to drive you up a wallsocket. Enter John Gregoras, a pro newspaper hanger out of Somers, New York, with nearly two decades’ experience. And, boy, did we learn a great deal – everything from the way he intends the layout to how he traces up the last seam. With this kind of insider know-how, papering just got a great deal easier.
Layout is the key if you’re learning how to hang wallpaper. Paying attention to the order in which the paper goes up ensures your pattern will remain well-matched and look straight. John Gregoras recommends functioning in 1 direction around the room to keep the pattern consistent.
But no matter how good your strategy, the pattern between the first and last strip will rarely match up. Because of this, Gregoras always begins his job behind a doorway, papering from the corner till he reaches the space above the door– the least conspicuous place in the room.
Very often, the last strip of paper on a wall is not a full sheet. Another wallpapering tip Gregoras uses is to constantly paper the corners with split sheets.
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Paint the whole room with a wall primer/sizer.
Unroll the wallpaper. As you do, check for flaws and haul the paper against the edge of your worktable to take away the curl.
Cut at the exact same place on the repeat so patterns on adjoining sheets will line up.
Lay a cut sheet on the table, face down. Using a paint roller, apply a thin film of clear premixed wallpaper paste on the back of the newspaper.
Tip: Don’t allow paste to get on the table or it will mar another sheet (wipe it off with a barely damp sponge if it does). Slide the paper all the way into the edge of this table to apply paste to the ends and edges.
Twist the glued back of this paper on itself, bottom and top ends meeting in the middle. Guarantee that the side borders line up perfectly. Smooth the paper onto itself as much as possible without creasing the springs.
Place the paper apart to permit the glue to soak in and also the paper to relax. Be sure to adhere to the exact booking time advocated on the wallpaper’s label, which differs depending on its material (more for vinyl-coated wallcoverings, less for uncoated papers).
Start in a corner near your doorway. In case the doorway is far from the corner, draw a reference line parallel to the doorway near the corner.
Overlap roughly 2 inches in the ceiling and 1/8 inch in the corner. Gently press it in position.
Check the dimension between the paper and the door casing or reference line. Adjust the paper to help keep it parallel to the door but nevertheless overlapping at least ⅛ inch in the corner.
When the sheet is aligned, use the edge of a newspaper simpler to tuck the paper to the corner at the ceiling. (Don’t press so hard for you to push out glue.)
Trim the excess paper in the ceiling: Push a 6-inch taping knife to the joint between the ceiling and wall. With a razor, cut over the knife to trim off the excess. Work slowly. Alternate between cutting and moving the knife. Don’t slide the razor and knife together. Keep on papering to some point over the door.
On the adjoining wall, roomgood.ru then draw a plumb line (if there’s no door or door ).
Hang a strip at the corner. Overlap the present bit on the adjacent wall by 1/8 inch. Quantify to the plumb line and correct the paper to keep the space equal. Smooth the newspaper. Lean in the ceiling and then trim the corner.
Hang another strip of newspaper. Unfold the top of the book and place it on the wall. Match the pattern as closely as possible, leaving just a hair’s width between sheets.
Tip: Push air bubbles out by sweeping the newspaper smoother from the middle out to the edges. Wipe off paste on the surface with a sponge.
Gently press on the surface of the paper to the wall. Then gently roll the seam using a seam roller to flatten down the edges. Now use the tips of your fingers to push the seam shut.
Unfold the bottom of the sheet and complete matching and closing the seam. Then tightly roll down the whole seam, working a full 3 inches in from the edge. This shields the seam, keeping it from opening as you smooth the paper.
Smooth the whole sheet. Continue papering the space, trimming and overlapping corners as shown in Step 5.
Suggestion: If the booked end of this strip starts to dry out until you hang it, then wipe the wall with a moist sponge. This may remoisten the paste when you hang the paper.
At doors and windows, allow the paper float the molding by at least an inch.
Gently run the razor out of the molding corner out to the edge of this paper. Utilize the molding for a guide.
Trim the excess paper flap using a taping knife and razor. Smooth down the whole sheet.
Hide little cutting mistakes on darker papers by coloring the wall or the white edge of the paper with a marker that matches the newspaper. Some pros even colour all the paper’s edges so seams aren’t as evident should the newspaper shrink as it dries.
Paper the cover plates of electric fixtures to make them vanish. Cut a sheet of wallpaper bigger than the plate. Cut out of the part of the pattern which matches the paper on the wall around the switch.
Apply paste to the plate, then lay it face down on the paper. Hold them on the wall and adjust the paper to match the pattern onto the wall.
Hold the paper and then turn the plate face down. Cut the corners off 1/8 inch off from the plate. Wrap the paper above the plate and then tape it on.
Cut out the switch or receptacle holes with a razor. Make Xs in the screw holes. Screw back the plates on the wall.